Saturday, January 2, 2016

Armattan f1-4b and Tweaker builds

After my experience and the quality of the Armattan f1-5 I decided to get the f1-4b.

I also got some ThugPDBv2 as I like the integrated power connection option. This makes for a nice clean build. They also have the ability to place a 5v step-down polo to provide 5v to the Naze32.

After some searching I also decided to go for some Titan v2 2204s/2300kv from RTFQ. I want durability over all out speed / thrust as I am still a learner FPVer, and will be crashing a lot. These motors have a 5mm hollow shaft and are build tough. I also ordered extra shafts and bearings for maintenance and having the ability to swap out if required. 

Here is the frame and all its parts. 

Since I have 3 different 180s I thought it would be nice to see how the different frame compare, they are all 4mm unibody style. Here's the Armattan over the Tweaker, Motor in identical locations.

 Heres the Armattan frame sitting on the HasteRC n-Trepid. Once again the motor mounts identical.

The fleet before 3 complete rebuilds. ESC swaps, new motors, PCB and the new F1-4b.

The F1-4b get the new Titan 2204s and a thugPCB.

Right first thing is to get the littlebee 20amp ESC's from the Tweaker. The Tweaker is also getitng a motor upgrade to SunnySky 2204s, and ztw 12amp ESC's. Time to strip it down.

One of the reasons I always try to have the complete VTX setup in the top plate and its easy to remove and do maintenance on. 

Time to remove the motors and ESCs, The D4Rii will stay where it is.

Ok, naked ready for the rebuild. I want to strip and get the Tweaker back in the air and then I could focus on the f1-4b.

Say goodbye to the 1806s, they will be going to the n-Trepid.

New ThugPCB test fitted.

So now come the time to strip old trusty. This silver glass fiber ZMR250 started my miniquad addiction and has been rock solid and never let me down, bit now I need motors, VTX and camera.

TheThugPCB with the polo soldered on, all pins beside the SHN pin.

The 5v JST lead soldered on and the first test fit of the ZTW12amp ESC's.

I had to lengthen the power leads as they were very short form the last build.

All the ESCs soldered up and double sided down on the frame. Its now time to try and make it look tidy.

 The Sunnysky motors test fit before wire trimming.

Its always a little bit of a struggle to make a 180 look tidy. 

Time to solder on the SunnySkys

The tweaker all updated, time to work on the F1-4b

Now to focus on the F1-4b, The THugFrame PDB, I used a servo lead to make the polo easy to replace as I have had a few fail on me and this way I makes it easy to replace.

I printed a couple of 4mm rails to mount the PDB from the frame

Hmmm... untidy work space

Rest time... the mini fleet it will be joining... no addiction here ... move along!!

Next step was to place the LittleBees and solder to the PDB and then solder the new Titian motors on. I didn't take to may photos of this as its cover often else where in my other builds.

I did however make sure that the motor wire were crossed on the CW motors to get the correct rotation.

Naze added, all ESC header pins are underneath the board,

The 12mm standoffs to give room for the header pins under the Naze.

This is VTX out of the old ZMR, I just reused it as is. Its a RCTimer Et200

The RCTimer VTX kit comes with an Ok cmos camera that I printed a basic housing for it. 

Its a tight squeeze as the Armattan frames use 30mm standoffs not the usual 35mm.

I used a g10 antenna mount for the RP-SMA pigtail. Just enough clearance. 

VTX system all mounted.

Main frame all complete, ready for the top plate.

As mentioned I like having the VTX system mounted and contained to the top plate, and the only connection is power, make it very easy to take apart and do maintenance and I can easily un-power the VTX system if I just want to fly LOS

To mount the CMOS camera I designed and printed a 20 degree mount that fitted in the gap between the camera mount plates that came with the frame. I will later change out to a H1177s when the budget allows. The tabs allow the mount be move forward and back, I printed a little long so just trimmed with a craft knife.

All mounted up on the top frame and connected. I also have the camera connected to the VTX with a servo extension lead plug and cable, makes it easy to swap since I change the builds all the time.

All buttoned ready for testing and tuning.

Please check out the update to this build after some proper field testing,  A few things were changed.