After an untidy build, there's no room on that frame, I got flying. It took me a while to adjust and tune for a mini quad (40 props later). So after some pretty hard crashes and broken parts I got an ok flying quad. Of course I then proceeded to push and had a very hard smack into the tarmac.... I failed to pull out of a triple flip ... It was not pretty.
Objectives
- Clear arms, ESC's inboard (required spacers)
- Lights for night flying (3D designed & printed light bars)
- Arm protection, as I fly mostly over tarmac (3D designed and printed parts)
- Slim profile, I dont like the look of tall quad
So
this lead me to searching for a new frame, ESCs, Motors .... on a budget still.
This lead me to the ZMR250. For $30US I didn't think you could go wrong.
So
I embarked on a ZMR250 build, after some trial and tribulations I got a nice
little quad build. But I also wanted an acro frame separate from my learner FPV
mini quad. I didn't want to have all my FPV gear on a frame that I was using for line of sight acro learning.
So
I ended up with 2 ZMR250 mini quads, both following the same objectives. One is
a carbon fiber frame and the other a silver glass fiber frame.
Below
I have documented the main differences to my build of the ZMR over the standard
build, which is mostly the inclusion of alloy stand offs and the 3D designed
and printed parts. There are plenty of good documented builds the normal way. A
few linked below. No need to reinvent the wheel
Builds and reviews for
reference
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xpu0nshqjI0
ZMR250 Silver
ESCs
RCX 12amp (would not purchase again)
HobbyKing afro 12amp (great ESCs)
Motors
DYS 1806 2400kv
Stand offs
10mm
17mm
22mm
Flight controller
NAZE32 .. anywhere you can get them or a Flip32
Receiver
FrSky DR4-II
Connectors
2mm connectors
FPV - Carbon frame
Fatshark Camera
Fatshark Transmitter
Other parts were your general bolts and heat shrink
Parts
Frame
ZMR250 CarbonZMR250 Silver
ESCs
RCX 12amp (would not purchase again)
HobbyKing afro 12amp (great ESCs)
Motors
DYS 1806 2400kv
Stand offs
10mm
17mm
22mm
Flight controller
NAZE32 .. anywhere you can get them or a Flip32
Receiver
FrSky DR4-II
Connectors
2mm connectors
FPV - Carbon frame
Fatshark Camera
Fatshark Transmitter
Other parts were your general bolts and heat shrink
The build differences
Ok
lets get down to the differences in the builds. The main one is the use of
standoff to provide space between the lower plates to allow room for the ESCs
to sit inside of the frame. I also thought this would make it easier to replace
arms if one broke or bent. As there have been reports that this happens easily
due ot the ZMR250 arm design.
I
used the same 10mm standoffs for both the carbon frame and the silver fiber glass frames, This gives a total of 13mm between the plates to fit the ESC and
wiring into.
The next tricky part is getting the ESC and the 35mm power distribution boards in that space. Using the RCX ESC's this was a real push as the ESC are large for a 12amp rated ESC. I would not use these again as the first time I powered them on one burnt out and took a motor with it .... I was displeased. Luckily I had ordered spare ESC's and motors.
Without
the 35mm PDB I would not have been able to do it.
Doing
the same thing with the Afro ESCs was much easier, they are a great little ESC.
For
the top plates I use different height standoffs, On the carbon I used 22mm this
was enough for the Fatshark FPV camera to be sandwiched nicely between the
plates. On the Sliver I used 16mm which was enough to allow the NAZE32 to be
mounted.
3D Printed Parts
The
joy of having a 3D printer is that you can make a lot of things that are not
available. It has been great for my quad builds, I have made gimbals, anti
vibration systems, flight controller cases... pretty much anything. It was well
worth the $500 investment.
Arm protector
So
for the ZMR250 I wanted some arm protection, Since I fly alot of time over
tarmac and gravity is alway trying to make me hit it I designed some arm
protectors that fit on the end of the ZMR250 arms. Its a tight fit on the
carbon arms, and is a little loss on the silver ones, but once zip tided on
they are very secure.
The
hole lines up to the ones in the ZMR250 arms
Light bars
Since
I do alot of evening flying, only chance I get most of my quads and LEDs on
them. The minis are no different. I wanted something that would allow a decent
set of LEDs and was also out of the way so that they wouldn't get damaged in a
crash. After a little bit of trial and error this is a completed Lightbar with
the LEDs on it.
The
larger version is printed in two halves due ot the limitations of the printable
size of my printer and then just super glued together. The thickness is 13mm
which fits the space between the two bottom plates with the spacers. They use
the holes already in the frame for mounting. Longer screws/bolts are used and
they go into the top plate standoffs.
A
complete large light bar. it has enough space fro 6 LEDs from the common 12 LED
strips. I run 3 red, 3 Green same as on a plane to help with orientation at
night.
On
the Carbon frame FPV I also put a large bar on the back with a multi LED colour
controller so I can have all sorts of fun with colours.
Landing Skids
Since
I fly low over tarmac alot of the time that are touch downs and slides so I
wanted an easily replaceable skid plate for the bottom of the quads. These are
mounted using the same bolts & fame holes that the light bars use.
The
weight difference between the frames is 4 grams. This is only including the arms
and the three frame plates which is all I used.
Conclusion
I
hope this perks your interest in what other options you have with this great
little frame.
Also
to note, yes you can break the arms, a failed double flip onto concrete did it
for me ... plus 2 motors ...
3D files
You
can download the .stl files for the 3D printed parts. Please feel free to use
them for you own person use.
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:563190
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:563190
I
think I have an addiction