tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-88393547150175750572024-03-14T06:46:38.657-07:00BluefishPetehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04947502453740564980noreply@blogger.comBlogger296125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8839354715017575057.post-9378924288232658032019-11-20T12:12:00.001-08:002019-11-20T12:14:04.780-08:00RC Drifting : MST FMX 2.0<div style="text-align: center;">
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Petehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04947502453740564980noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8839354715017575057.post-60739863510307904302018-07-04T16:34:00.001-07:002018-07-04T16:34:30.852-07:00Autumn 2018<iframe allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="270" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/-rpnJxJO0-I" width="480"></iframe>Petehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04947502453740564980noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8839354715017575057.post-3956863886429417222018-04-19T01:38:00.001-07:002018-04-19T01:38:32.809-07:00SHORTS 0 9<iframe allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="270" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/gW_K-KNYK1o" width="480"></iframe>Petehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04947502453740564980noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8839354715017575057.post-3071961750247605422018-03-10T22:29:00.001-08:002018-03-10T22:29:50.460-08:00SHORTS 0.2<iframe allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="270" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/0FlVjwRYXWc" width="480"></iframe>Petehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04947502453740564980noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8839354715017575057.post-56358565440668832182017-12-04T00:54:00.001-08:002017-12-04T00:54:26.356-08:00Sunshine : river run<iframe allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="344" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/STBDfuopsF4" width="459"></iframe>Petehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04947502453740564980noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8839354715017575057.post-44326685013919163002017-11-05T23:17:00.001-08:002017-11-05T23:17:58.345-08:00Midnight<iframe allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="270" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/ayi_2WZ6PHM" width="480"></iframe>Petehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04947502453740564980noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8839354715017575057.post-37453867031129707292017-10-22T17:59:00.001-07:002017-10-22T17:59:59.527-07:00NO Left Turns<iframe allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="270" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/Og6YFxKSU8s" width="480"></iframe>Petehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04947502453740564980noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8839354715017575057.post-16913962776892310892017-10-22T17:13:00.001-07:002017-10-22T17:13:24.949-07:00Trees At Dusk<iframe allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="270" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/T6BfCDw5HZE" width="480"></iframe>Petehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04947502453740564980noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8839354715017575057.post-14406220331790551772017-10-16T12:40:00.001-07:002017-10-16T12:40:42.690-07:00Lets Fly<iframe allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="270" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/4XFwG0EtiHo" width="480"></iframe>Petehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04947502453740564980noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8839354715017575057.post-6046756527958621102017-06-19T01:42:00.001-07:002017-06-19T01:42:21.211-07:00Something A Little Slower<iframe allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="281" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/vyovxYeoasM" width="500"></iframe>Petehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04947502453740564980noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8839354715017575057.post-63562518255183472242017-05-16T00:18:00.002-07:002017-05-16T00:18:17.571-07:00Autumn Twilight <iframe width="500" height="281" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/dwRhnsf0hTI" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>Petehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04947502453740564980noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8839354715017575057.post-46461799644821711072016-12-30T16:03:00.001-08:002016-12-30T16:03:47.809-08:00Dueling Camera's<iframe width="480" height="270" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/6ba4xvhCmQw" frameborder="0" allowFullScreen=""></iframe>Petehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04947502453740564980noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8839354715017575057.post-75477118324838141002016-12-30T00:28:00.001-08:002016-12-30T00:28:51.454-08:00Invasion of the Wing<iframe width="480" height="270" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/Q5zwxl1iPwo" frameborder="0" allowFullScreen=""></iframe>Petehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04947502453740564980noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8839354715017575057.post-55871887408588995562016-12-28T16:20:00.003-08:002016-12-28T16:20:45.514-08:00Crash Reel #2<iframe width="480" height="270" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/ymUIEWphON8" frameborder="0" allowFullScreen=""></iframe>Petehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04947502453740564980noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8839354715017575057.post-55689232188660189012016-12-28T16:20:00.001-08:002016-12-28T16:20:22.960-08:00Crash Reel #1<iframe width="480" height="270" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/xLH0EG89XxM" frameborder="0" allowFullScreen=""></iframe>Petehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04947502453740564980noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8839354715017575057.post-75123428068450183042016-12-27T01:23:00.001-08:002016-12-27T01:23:54.021-08:00I did Science<iframe width="480" height="270" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/YSp89t14K-c" frameborder="0" allowFullScreen=""></iframe>Petehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04947502453740564980noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8839354715017575057.post-39057414300026064292016-09-23T17:53:00.004-07:002016-09-23T17:53:52.418-07:00Summer nearly here ... After a long break over winter, I did manage to get a good amount of flying in and have improved alot. So now its time to do a few more builds, or actually put up the ones I have completed.<br />
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Like the QAV210 and the Armattan Armadillo with the 3D printed stuff I have made for those builds. I will get onto those on the coming week. I also have lots of spare parts that I am pondering what to create.<br />
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One I plan to do have is resurrect the <a href="http://www.bluefish.net.nz/2015/02/flip-sport-build-for-acro-flying.html" target="_blank">flip acro frame</a> and make it FPV and the same for the fortis tricopter. Get some of the bigger birds back onto the air. I also have a couple of wings to make, never flown a wing before so that should be fun.<br />
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plenty to come in the coming months.<br />
<br />Petehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04947502453740564980noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8839354715017575057.post-13153402200652236802016-04-06T01:06:00.003-07:002016-04-06T01:06:46.618-07:00Diversity Ground StationSo a couple of months back I finished my diversity ground station. I did take photos of it while building, but not really enough to do a proper build log. I had to redo a few things and forgot to capture those part.<br />
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But the upshot is that I now have a very cool ground station.<br />
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It runs off a 3s battery, has a master power switch that arms the whole station and has 2 video and power feeds for goggles. One is dedicated to fatshark and is limited to 8v, so with my custom cable I can power the fan on the Dominator v3s.<br />
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Each of the power feeds also have there own switch.<br />
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For diversity its running the FR632 and uses pig tails to have external SMAs at the top of the lid.<br />
A 7 inch screen for testing and allowing bystanders, and my young daughter / spotter to watch me crash..!!!<br />
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Of course lots of little 3D printed parts to make it look clean.<br />
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It works extremely well and I'm super happy with the final product.<br />
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So if anybody wants more details leave a comment.<br />
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Here are a couple of photos.<br />
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<br />Petehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04947502453740564980noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8839354715017575057.post-8007335022771732422016-02-11T13:58:00.001-08:002016-02-11T14:02:45.461-08:00Armattan F1-5 Acro - CustomI needed a new acro frame ... this is it.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqQNPWKsoXkUk8QVZRXu7to7DlR2cuDCQJaTDZHhBvzZoQW_txi2SPEXHnRvS8TaWE8_En8LwA46RCLtbFFPWM3AhkzqNeTVXzky-xOKXfuC2xQOwGdoVNjUi8X0s7fqd98p6HQhOP7xk/s1600/IMG_1253.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqQNPWKsoXkUk8QVZRXu7to7DlR2cuDCQJaTDZHhBvzZoQW_txi2SPEXHnRvS8TaWE8_En8LwA46RCLtbFFPWM3AhkzqNeTVXzky-xOKXfuC2xQOwGdoVNjUi8X0s7fqd98p6HQhOP7xk/s400/IMG_1253.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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Well it had to happen I destroyed my LOS 5inch acro frame, The rubber band that held the battery cable out of the way broke, the cable flew loose tied up one prop ... and down it tumbled ... from about 75 feet .... yip that hurt. A 4mm arm, top and bottom plates and a naze32.<br />
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So after my success and overall happiness with Armattan frames I got on special a F1-5 Acro, this one has the 4mm non routed arms. Time to rebuild a new acro frame.<br />
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I had one main aim ... I wanted the battery on the top. I hate having it on the bottom as I always crash or come out of loops late close to the ground and hit the underside 9 times out of 10. I have lost more batteries that way than any other. So the main aim was a strong frame and to have the battery mounted on the top.<br />
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With the f1-5 Acro I built the bottom plate using a plate that didnt use capture nuts that are used on other Armattan builds. This allowed me to use bolts to come up and then screw into alloy standoffs. The arms and top plate, the F1FC integrated Naze32 are mounted as usual.<br />
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I did swap the power train on this build to use littlebees 20amps and Titan 2204s.<br />
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The arms and the bottom plate ready for the top plate.<br />
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The Armattan F1-FC is great for tidy and simplified builds. I have used this on my F1-5 FPV and they are great. Yes they are currently only Rev5 but for my level of skill and flying its not a limiting factor. </div>
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This is the finished F1-FC, as you can see its really clean, and this is with LEDs and telemetry on there.</div>
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Unfortunately I forgot to get a photo of the next steps, but its pretty straight forward. Instead of using nuts on the bolts that came up through the frame I used 10mm alloy standoffs. Then I used another base plate that is bolted to the standoffs. This gives a triple deck and makes the frame super strong, but the main thing is that it gives a strong place to mount your battery on top of the frame, which was my main aim. </div>
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The 10mm standoffs give enough space to mount the Frsky D4Rii transmitter to the bottom of the top plate directly over the F1-FC. I just added a 3D printed plate for the velcro strap. This was bolted on via the top plates 35 holes. I then used window insulation foam to protect the battery and also helps with lateral battery movement.</div>
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The top view of the complete frame.<br />
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The integrated buzzer and LEDs I got from Banggood.com</div>
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I also covered the bottom plate and the arms in some cheap book cover seal that I found in a book store, just to make it look a little different.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZM9qDH2UXz1HgrIJtXcS6xIWTlP4xwqPUow9RquwFVm8zfC_h8jW2FT9NT53pyUf39PL-zzgn8vauJ3EBVT30swWJFMZEKGft0huqqwBqwUjsURX0Lgcc-AraD8eROuBCqryznL9qMmo/s1600/IMG_1240.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZM9qDH2UXz1HgrIJtXcS6xIWTlP4xwqPUow9RquwFVm8zfC_h8jW2FT9NT53pyUf39PL-zzgn8vauJ3EBVT30swWJFMZEKGft0huqqwBqwUjsURX0Lgcc-AraD8eROuBCqryznL9qMmo/s400/IMG_1240.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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I printed some standard bolt pattern feet to help protect the frame. And as with all my frames the arms have 4mm nylon tube wrapped around them. It sure helps protect them from the tarmac and is very light and easy to replace.<br />
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Already for its maiden flight. When flying acro I use green props for the front and other colours for the rear.<br />
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After a little bit of very basic tuning, it flew great and handled failed new tricks and crashes really well. I doubt if I will be breaking this little beastly.</div>
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While out flying the F1-F5 FPV I though why not just throw on the GoPro on the acro and get a video of me doing some basic LOS acro. </div>
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Below is how dodgy the strapping of the GoPro to the frame was for the flight, but it worked. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9jEQajHG3TOB-Q0B6HQVGdOkXIslUxggoZvcV8UZ303mOXZWq7ePHi1cya_IExSuTdQ-edCXiNs9CvOqS4LneZrPDvV5VIwvsUH92a5lZcpoQnL5S-3tMM-0IgFdqnfjM-7zvtHAcgXg/s1600/IMG_1247.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9jEQajHG3TOB-Q0B6HQVGdOkXIslUxggoZvcV8UZ303mOXZWq7ePHi1cya_IExSuTdQ-edCXiNs9CvOqS4LneZrPDvV5VIwvsUH92a5lZcpoQnL5S-3tMM-0IgFdqnfjM-7zvtHAcgXg/s400/IMG_1247.JPG" width="300" /></a></div>
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Heres the video ...<br />
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<iframe allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="281" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/W6xFvj81Aic" width="500"></iframe><br /></div>
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If you have any questions flick me an email or comment.<br />
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<br />Petehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04947502453740564980noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8839354715017575057.post-33963884212696105202016-01-02T15:32:00.001-08:002016-01-02T15:57:02.071-08:00Armattan f1-5 with integrated NazeI am a sucker for cool new things, and when Chris from Armattan released a integrated Naze32 / PDB for the F1 range of frames. So order another F1-5 with the additional F1FC.<br />
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10days later it arrived in little old New Zealand<br />
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The integrated PDB / Naze board.<br />
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Time to start the build, base plate with the captured nuts.</div>
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Quick mock up, ... frame nearly done ;)</div>
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Added the XT60 pigtail. I no longer attach the XT60 directly to the PDB.</div>
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Next up was the ESCs, I used littlebees 20s</div>
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Next up was the Titan 2204s, wires cut to length then soldered to the ESCs. </div>
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Next I added PPM lead which is a servo extension, the same for the LED strip from pin 5, and lastly the Frsky telemetry.</div>
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Finally the buzzer</div>
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Call me paranoid, but I then covered the bottom of the board where the carbon arms overlap with insulation tape. </div>
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I also had this carbon top plate that I used to cover and protect the Naze, I used 5mm nylon standoffs to mount to the top plate.</div>
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View from the the bottom plate.<br />
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Then I it was just a matter of connecting the D4RII.</div>
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The LEDs, I use the same method, a servo extension soldered to the naze and the other soldered to the supplied programable LED board.</div>
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Bottom plate all complete.<br />
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On the first version I used 2 pins soldered on the board to provide power to the VTX, I later changed this to the servo extension lead method.<br />
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I added my 3d printed feet, to help protect the frame.</div>
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I also used CA to wick the ends of the arms to help prevent delimitation of crashes. I also wrap each arm in PVC tube, which works really well for protection. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjwT9Dtji4oeLrDemIhe1b4D6i8OStEc51L3A2kCQHn2uOpDGl9QmnubZsAqFHWw2UzCgzYkY142FADUU1hqva1n-uTi4c_IY7mUzgIR9v0QKc3AGNi3XHtsXnIAC0f1O_-i5QhAh71Sd0/s1600/BA45C134-7804-405C-8FDF-64CD9F59C5D9.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjwT9Dtji4oeLrDemIhe1b4D6i8OStEc51L3A2kCQHn2uOpDGl9QmnubZsAqFHWw2UzCgzYkY142FADUU1hqva1n-uTi4c_IY7mUzgIR9v0QKc3AGNi3XHtsXnIAC0f1O_-i5QhAh71Sd0/s400/BA45C134-7804-405C-8FDF-64CD9F59C5D9.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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moving onto the camera mount I made a little chair to hold the camera at a consistent 20 angle. I have found that with how often I crash the cases on the hs1177 dont hold up very well. With the little chair it hold the camera at the right angle and the side screws only have to hold in horizontal movement.<br />
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I used 3m double sided to hold to the chair.</div>
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I got also designed a case for the ET200 VTX I use, this mounts it over the CG and provides great protection, the lid is just ziptied on. Below is the top plate all mounted with the sma pig tail and the servo extension plugs on the camera and power.<br />
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Camera all mounted<br />
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Ready to join to two halves<br />
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All mounted you can see the clearance from the VTX case to the Naze plate protector.<br />
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After a few Flights I decided to not use the camera plates and just use a camera "chair" This allows me to change angle with different "chairs"</div>
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Front of the f1-5, Nice and clean.<br />
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Love this frame, it may not be the lightest with my mods, but it sure is durable. The integrated naze makes the build super easy and clean. I have ordered another one for my other F1 I was that impressed. </div>
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I will then have two almost identical FPV 5inch rigs to go and fly the heck out of. </div>
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If you are interested in the 3d printed parts they are here. </div>
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Bumpers / VTX case</div>
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<a href="http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1241156">http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1241156</a></div>
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Gopro mount<br />
<a href="http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1202529">http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1202529</a>Petehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04947502453740564980noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8839354715017575057.post-3694159719810279012016-01-02T14:03:00.000-08:002016-01-02T14:22:57.363-08:00Armattan f1-4b UpdateAfter using the F1-4b for a good month I have learnt a few things and completely redid the build from those lessons learnt.<br />
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<b><i>Landed it !!!</i></b></div>
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Beginner FPV flights</div>
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Here is the break down of what I changed.<br />
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The major one and I have since gone back and changed this on all my quads is the hard mount of a XT60 to the integrated style PDBs. They work great until you have one or two crashes where a battery is ejected. The pins on the XT60 deform and this then causes a a loose connection. Yes you can just bend then out a little again, but having to do that is a pain and fatigues the pins to the point it will eventually break. I also had momentarily power losses that power cycled the whole quad .... not good when flying !!<br />
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So I removed the hard mounted XT60 and then soldered two 25mm lengths of battery lead weighted silicon wire between the XT60 and board. This isn't a new trick and I should have done this from day one.<br />
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Now to help prevent the battery cable form wandering into the path of the props I use a large O-ring to hold the lead to the battery strap. Works really well. A rubber band would be just as good.<br />
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Next was not a totally necessary one but I wanted brighter rear LEDs. I didnt need the programable ones, its a nice play feature, but I just wanted bright. Now all the Armattan F1 frames use 30mm standoffs, not the usual 35mm which made for a more challenging problem. </div>
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I wanted to use one of <a href="http://www.banggood.com/35mm-Camera-Fixed-Plate-Light-Plate-For-RC250-RC250-PRO-RC280-Frame-p-982503.html" target="_blank">these </a>as they work really well and are super bright, plus I already had a few. But the slots on the Armattan frame are different and if placed inside the rear stand-offs the props hit it. </div>
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So I altered my rear 3D printed bumper and made a top one that held the LED plate outside the frame and also protected it, Worked great. </div>
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Now since I used 35mm standoffs the front camera mount plates were too short, I tried it without them, but that reduced the support for the top plate. Which resulted in to much flex of the 1.6mm carbon top plate. I then designed a 5mm spacer that the camera plates slot onto and is zip tied to the bottom plate. </div>
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With the extra space I was able to mount the VTX at the front and use the provided antenna mount hole instead of the side mounted one I have in the previous build. </div>
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So my current frankenstein build of the f1-4b is now complete, It may not be pretty but is sure is strong and durable, the two things I need as a learner FPVer. </div>
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Here is the link to the 3d files. </div>
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<a href="http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1241029">http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1241029</a></div>
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<br />Petehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04947502453740564980noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8839354715017575057.post-20545936189671772792016-01-02T13:14:00.002-08:002016-01-02T15:53:40.253-08:00Armattan f1-4b and Tweaker buildsAfter my experience and the quality of the Armattan f1-5 I decided to get the f1-4b.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUTPHNFwPY9TXXdOUtQNZq1xyL_wJQzfi1lDb5NB3iwdYniDHJM5HCyv5YCwuhdsGwVQ8zx2nTZb7rtrW5tGk_XZyhTkdekEAdJv-zoDIepMorA5W93mnhfvL1QeWQE8ZOHP3ReI2IVXY/s1600/IMG_0922.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUTPHNFwPY9TXXdOUtQNZq1xyL_wJQzfi1lDb5NB3iwdYniDHJM5HCyv5YCwuhdsGwVQ8zx2nTZb7rtrW5tGk_XZyhTkdekEAdJv-zoDIepMorA5W93mnhfvL1QeWQE8ZOHP3ReI2IVXY/s400/IMG_0922.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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I also got some ThugPDBv2 as I like the integrated power connection option. This makes for a nice clean build. They also have the ability to place a 5v step-down polo to provide 5v to the Naze32.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjezLM-jWZmiGNEftrFG7A6Xvq95dQgJRC1NCijrMbAhS1SIftaGyVBftIHVbWN0pQavfOnU9MkvXnYfnMgddR6GC_MeTghdhGS2xMjD4xIZmB2O2IUM75VXEZlUuJlyJmnNUXE73Zp0_0/s1600/IMG_0923.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjezLM-jWZmiGNEftrFG7A6Xvq95dQgJRC1NCijrMbAhS1SIftaGyVBftIHVbWN0pQavfOnU9MkvXnYfnMgddR6GC_MeTghdhGS2xMjD4xIZmB2O2IUM75VXEZlUuJlyJmnNUXE73Zp0_0/s400/IMG_0923.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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After some searching I also decided to go for some Titan v2 2204s/2300kv from RTFQ. I want durability over all out speed / thrust as I am still a learner FPVer, and will be crashing a lot. These motors have a 5mm hollow shaft and are build tough. I also ordered extra shafts and bearings for maintenance and having the ability to swap out if required. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQLRCjOypO5Q_GrzxI5uuGsNDmKWv3rhUSfsHRPJ6k1d_LpLMpQlXO_Mq65UWaRtEG6Zk1QcrcIIH-5G1A90_YDsBDPG4AqrXU2YIzzUAohHq2VRhuMLfI0MllU8LJMcRwf11g_qckO4M/s1600/18F7E6D8-4FB5-44B4-9DDF-C2397BF347E4.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQLRCjOypO5Q_GrzxI5uuGsNDmKWv3rhUSfsHRPJ6k1d_LpLMpQlXO_Mq65UWaRtEG6Zk1QcrcIIH-5G1A90_YDsBDPG4AqrXU2YIzzUAohHq2VRhuMLfI0MllU8LJMcRwf11g_qckO4M/s400/18F7E6D8-4FB5-44B4-9DDF-C2397BF347E4.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLWCOp5jh1xayHATzYYhYeD3loPEsrjNmVMYx1mca1FTIJwVMj6AgQHRCJw8G5op7BeX4s0pjEBpO6Y9OvK7njkQIT0Nog9EQkPA0z4CAeTEf96EtinxCyATV-5_VhzXwmWxI-lxeF2jU/s1600/IMG_0925.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLWCOp5jh1xayHATzYYhYeD3loPEsrjNmVMYx1mca1FTIJwVMj6AgQHRCJw8G5op7BeX4s0pjEBpO6Y9OvK7njkQIT0Nog9EQkPA0z4CAeTEf96EtinxCyATV-5_VhzXwmWxI-lxeF2jU/s400/IMG_0925.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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Here is the frame and all its parts. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiG7z4mzisyhP8bXpWj82OHof29X3GXxgCiZssEA0IgfxX7OwGJXLGY3ij5f25j2GZSIhBfXwazSsrcRQ5nbokv2UGmzmeDgEzcg0GTOlKrO6Noj_zyUww64voK1yKb_v_HT2WyXo0zIw8/s1600/C72CEEAC-23A5-439F-AEDA-16BB2858FCB3.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiG7z4mzisyhP8bXpWj82OHof29X3GXxgCiZssEA0IgfxX7OwGJXLGY3ij5f25j2GZSIhBfXwazSsrcRQ5nbokv2UGmzmeDgEzcg0GTOlKrO6Noj_zyUww64voK1yKb_v_HT2WyXo0zIw8/s400/C72CEEAC-23A5-439F-AEDA-16BB2858FCB3.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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Since I have 3 different 180s I thought it would be nice to see how the different frame compare, they are all 4mm unibody style. Here's the Armattan over the Tweaker, Motor in identical locations.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiGtvBMl9b-Sswbx88wEn2JuMXmwtMp8AvDvcQK-Bvrhj2WhNx9CUxPK1e9L0nenU8Klx-23fm2uS9ShWMBykFCB0f0UjIoQf4KuXnFnn9ElHgeELP-dnUtq7aPUhbOK5D6mt2kXl3csPY/s1600/DE319A7F-2DAC-4151-A10E-14DE1B47B032.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiGtvBMl9b-Sswbx88wEn2JuMXmwtMp8AvDvcQK-Bvrhj2WhNx9CUxPK1e9L0nenU8Klx-23fm2uS9ShWMBykFCB0f0UjIoQf4KuXnFnn9ElHgeELP-dnUtq7aPUhbOK5D6mt2kXl3csPY/s400/DE319A7F-2DAC-4151-A10E-14DE1B47B032.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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Heres the Armattan frame sitting on the HasteRC n-Trepid. Once again the motor mounts identical.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhfiRFQJQlkk47JqH-Gjj-4UEXJfLtia22r5c2lBxw0P516qczuOZrnoYrL2sicoWNlSe0YzRuzNutymr5-uxZHAedFpRG7lxL0kWi6Ezgjs3J0R40MGg0F53ypXUijuATBAwj0bw6kSuY/s1600/2F23BCD9-7FAF-4055-9D04-D1E26D736491.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhfiRFQJQlkk47JqH-Gjj-4UEXJfLtia22r5c2lBxw0P516qczuOZrnoYrL2sicoWNlSe0YzRuzNutymr5-uxZHAedFpRG7lxL0kWi6Ezgjs3J0R40MGg0F53ypXUijuATBAwj0bw6kSuY/s400/2F23BCD9-7FAF-4055-9D04-D1E26D736491.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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The fleet before 3 complete rebuilds. ESC swaps, new motors, PCB and the new F1-4b.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgD8yd4ocwjJ_LD3DimVpCcDWYyS8rLFs0B9onTcNGf3PddjGVFQjZ1rONXiNyvwjVGZ0jO_iHx__cjnve87oBd0FItJh5IK77b0x3PtrF8wQMFf-89Z38MMbSx-Vcm0yACK4LO-znzmd4/s1600/IMG_0935.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgD8yd4ocwjJ_LD3DimVpCcDWYyS8rLFs0B9onTcNGf3PddjGVFQjZ1rONXiNyvwjVGZ0jO_iHx__cjnve87oBd0FItJh5IK77b0x3PtrF8wQMFf-89Z38MMbSx-Vcm0yACK4LO-znzmd4/s400/IMG_0935.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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The F1-4b get the new Titan 2204s and a thugPCB.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhcv7XscacPaNfOe7gxE5TkQmM8yzju3V2XLhGhyPGjJd4ZkYkBcjuW8pBYRXoTkcnHdUSEHaleV7sghfeA84XLXnuORD5NVXuZNluAg_ppGJbSfPiIE60BVkp4DX6wXH-inl79YYherug/s1600/IMG_0933.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhcv7XscacPaNfOe7gxE5TkQmM8yzju3V2XLhGhyPGjJd4ZkYkBcjuW8pBYRXoTkcnHdUSEHaleV7sghfeA84XLXnuORD5NVXuZNluAg_ppGJbSfPiIE60BVkp4DX6wXH-inl79YYherug/s400/IMG_0933.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgCFHHHqQaxkD5DvOYE0KDJC-9rTprPaKg3fC-FAaAKeMOq8z2KmFduMzcg56JIb6ftYz-7Qqe5xMitSkF1LrQeGeTUQQj5_UUqXjdBS3UP0UhYU4HkAYuB8allZjgOA8L_5UdNcfCnZto/s1600/IMG_0934.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgCFHHHqQaxkD5DvOYE0KDJC-9rTprPaKg3fC-FAaAKeMOq8z2KmFduMzcg56JIb6ftYz-7Qqe5xMitSkF1LrQeGeTUQQj5_UUqXjdBS3UP0UhYU4HkAYuB8allZjgOA8L_5UdNcfCnZto/s400/IMG_0934.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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Right first thing is to get the littlebee 20amp ESC's from the Tweaker. The Tweaker is also getitng a motor upgrade to SunnySky 2204s, and ztw 12amp ESC's. Time to strip it down.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqNw220jp5P37jhP7Ogz5oSdRiQTI9o05DqOnVoraG25M2q7SBDiuseEIuEO97GyTqs3Gr2oy7G2TGExZqlRjGiC9FRkH8llCfgRArgMdIQIhc8s20myt-ePe9e2SGoVtO7L9cNb-5VRo/s1600/CC52C159-C80D-484F-8C3F-615B3DBFB748.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqNw220jp5P37jhP7Ogz5oSdRiQTI9o05DqOnVoraG25M2q7SBDiuseEIuEO97GyTqs3Gr2oy7G2TGExZqlRjGiC9FRkH8llCfgRArgMdIQIhc8s20myt-ePe9e2SGoVtO7L9cNb-5VRo/s400/CC52C159-C80D-484F-8C3F-615B3DBFB748.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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One of the reasons I always try to have the complete VTX setup in the top plate and its easy to remove and do maintenance on. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnjV_X9PBgCNcQMgvsHbdwSmaVRIjcPXkdlTu98WypQkHfuT7nqw1NxXayQim2PxsL_oEOON_52z1agnjK623hOyeLXgkq4H5HcI5VaVWtcIi6N5h8a7ZuOWDX2FSxvM7TiDDzsqdwTK0/s1600/IMG_0942.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnjV_X9PBgCNcQMgvsHbdwSmaVRIjcPXkdlTu98WypQkHfuT7nqw1NxXayQim2PxsL_oEOON_52z1agnjK623hOyeLXgkq4H5HcI5VaVWtcIi6N5h8a7ZuOWDX2FSxvM7TiDDzsqdwTK0/s400/IMG_0942.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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Time to remove the motors and ESCs, The D4Rii will stay where it is.<br />
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Ok, naked ready for the rebuild. I want to strip and get the Tweaker back in the air and then I could focus on the f1-4b.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhhniZm1uuBqn6AH8j6ZCBTnzR5Qkbn_e7yM843jOHIz6FpNlnvRktEAfgrFOOzG_oMt4chn8S9Vbnp5W-kH_xn3OT32Cw6jfvAm4vqiBL0Wi_E4451Or595zAQv51U6Ktqm_Q1mSF-iAU/s1600/A1EBDEEE-0425-4DB8-B792-68949EB28300.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhhniZm1uuBqn6AH8j6ZCBTnzR5Qkbn_e7yM843jOHIz6FpNlnvRktEAfgrFOOzG_oMt4chn8S9Vbnp5W-kH_xn3OT32Cw6jfvAm4vqiBL0Wi_E4451Or595zAQv51U6Ktqm_Q1mSF-iAU/s400/A1EBDEEE-0425-4DB8-B792-68949EB28300.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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Say goodbye to the 1806s, they will be going to the n-Trepid.</div>
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New ThugPCB test fitted.<br />
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So now come the time to strip old trusty. This silver glass fiber ZMR250 started my miniquad addiction and has been rock solid and never let me down, bit now I need motors, VTX and camera.<br />
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TheThugPCB with the polo soldered on, all pins beside the SHN pin.</div>
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The 5v JST lead soldered on and the first test fit of the ZTW12amp ESC's.</div>
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I had to lengthen the power leads as they were very short form the last build.</div>
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All the ESCs soldered up and double sided down on the frame. Its now time to try and make it look tidy.</div>
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The Sunnysky motors test fit before wire trimming.<br />
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Its always a little bit of a struggle to make a 180 look tidy. </div>
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Time to solder on the SunnySkys<br />
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The tweaker all updated, time to work on the F1-4b<br />
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Now to focus on the F1-4b, The THugFrame PDB, I used a servo lead to make the polo easy to replace as I have had a few fail on me and this way I makes it easy to replace.<br />
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I printed a couple of 4mm rails to mount the PDB from the frame</div>
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Hmmm... untidy work space</div>
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Rest time... the mini fleet it will be joining... no addiction here ... move along!!</div>
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Next step was to place the LittleBees and solder to the PDB and then solder the new Titian motors on. I didn't take to may photos of this as its cover often else where in my other builds.<br />
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I did however make sure that the motor wire were crossed on the CW motors to get the correct rotation.<br />
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Naze added, all ESC header pins are underneath the board,<br />
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The 12mm standoffs to give room for the header pins under the Naze.<br />
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This is VTX out of the old ZMR, I just reused it as is. Its a RCTimer Et200<br />
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The RCTimer VTX kit comes with an Ok cmos camera that I printed a basic housing for it. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhYxh5xaipcqLAp8kMAvNno-A3SRkVnLTBSX1nMJjMJ2NDX0XPQ2WZ8RRc8tUlKHjPBjkHiL0PlZKUmpSl2TrCtZ_4ypAKHCQ3Y2Ap607daVZV3dBLxuwu_Hhj1pPOyTC44PWFFgNCLt7o/s1600/IMG_0976.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhYxh5xaipcqLAp8kMAvNno-A3SRkVnLTBSX1nMJjMJ2NDX0XPQ2WZ8RRc8tUlKHjPBjkHiL0PlZKUmpSl2TrCtZ_4ypAKHCQ3Y2Ap607daVZV3dBLxuwu_Hhj1pPOyTC44PWFFgNCLt7o/s400/IMG_0976.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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Its a tight squeeze as the Armattan frames use 30mm standoffs not the usual 35mm.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjrtflL5uFBrKTL4ACQy_jljcmjL0mPy2J3BnCUOu3fLBKSn5-EufwDbhLZIp1AcEEdpIstnTk4dq5Dm5OEwcrC-dn5o6V9Ghp7FV4q4SAxOUROCnccdcOZPCdYjIWX9fGVQ-w_QMilbPw/s1600/DF77B308-0CA0-4D2E-83E3-BB8160188728.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjrtflL5uFBrKTL4ACQy_jljcmjL0mPy2J3BnCUOu3fLBKSn5-EufwDbhLZIp1AcEEdpIstnTk4dq5Dm5OEwcrC-dn5o6V9Ghp7FV4q4SAxOUROCnccdcOZPCdYjIWX9fGVQ-w_QMilbPw/s400/DF77B308-0CA0-4D2E-83E3-BB8160188728.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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I used a g10 antenna mount for the RP-SMA pigtail. Just enough clearance. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhRxBIFrA-G4TsuAQWnFjYaYO6eYKWN4rkOOMGHZMHnXOrQNsSlE0aBoRjc78aM3M-gr8J0YBL7euktS1xisMItalyN_7PC-92Zf6gRVW9-Snh6rb06pFPFALQHb4tQi1klem-19WDocGs/s1600/4E4F5EBA-1F1F-4BF4-86D1-C234A41C9DBC.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhRxBIFrA-G4TsuAQWnFjYaYO6eYKWN4rkOOMGHZMHnXOrQNsSlE0aBoRjc78aM3M-gr8J0YBL7euktS1xisMItalyN_7PC-92Zf6gRVW9-Snh6rb06pFPFALQHb4tQi1klem-19WDocGs/s400/4E4F5EBA-1F1F-4BF4-86D1-C234A41C9DBC.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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VTX system all mounted.</div>
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Main frame all complete, ready for the top plate.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjU6TJYd5QQY-9bwdfzQQVHE4W1uJnn6pizlR1SwePZRQScvtvrsNY-YSJ8BRmYhgVasFCxeiB-yjb0iKQ0RsQy2W-Vxe16bGxmmrINQCDtdDS3OiWauB8jiZouH-8ZtxhvFiLnxB_cSXU/s1600/EFDCED8F-7EDA-46A7-BA56-3CB4FF1CC67E.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjU6TJYd5QQY-9bwdfzQQVHE4W1uJnn6pizlR1SwePZRQScvtvrsNY-YSJ8BRmYhgVasFCxeiB-yjb0iKQ0RsQy2W-Vxe16bGxmmrINQCDtdDS3OiWauB8jiZouH-8ZtxhvFiLnxB_cSXU/s400/EFDCED8F-7EDA-46A7-BA56-3CB4FF1CC67E.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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As mentioned I like having the VTX system mounted and contained to the top plate, and the only connection is power, make it very easy to take apart and do maintenance and I can easily un-power the VTX system if I just want to fly LOS<br />
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To mount the CMOS camera I designed and printed a 20 degree mount that fitted in the gap between the camera mount plates that came with the frame. I will later change out to a H1177s when the budget allows. The tabs allow the mount be move forward and back, I printed a little long so just trimmed with a craft knife.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhG0u6vSqnsFpUqnVa36rhrew_SugSLEjOUDcTXLImFLq7kYgzj4POmIpAcjnBpZWRddJtgkXRs9ThC4a2HPyM1zkn-Kq2Yub2O_BRTXP9UrZ2lGIckg3tLbqKvV1ze2mmqlHch_C3FP00/s1600/B9E06534-72C3-4C4B-8874-580F98DE5BF6.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhG0u6vSqnsFpUqnVa36rhrew_SugSLEjOUDcTXLImFLq7kYgzj4POmIpAcjnBpZWRddJtgkXRs9ThC4a2HPyM1zkn-Kq2Yub2O_BRTXP9UrZ2lGIckg3tLbqKvV1ze2mmqlHch_C3FP00/s400/B9E06534-72C3-4C4B-8874-580F98DE5BF6.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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All mounted up on the top frame and connected. I also have the camera connected to the VTX with a servo extension lead plug and cable, makes it easy to swap since I change the builds all the time.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgBJ8W6G3c5Xew-ps88rkhI8ED8HM-oi2c683L2NKb6bXGV64HZawL2UIGc2NTeKOYeXEMjPCYo4Di-nrHPvvv1lOqwTiFnlHX6KDV1HjwgVP-34EXpIqSISceA36AE9dnGOH6hG7lVCqY/s1600/7ED46DE0-08D3-432D-B817-15C3F129F3DE.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgBJ8W6G3c5Xew-ps88rkhI8ED8HM-oi2c683L2NKb6bXGV64HZawL2UIGc2NTeKOYeXEMjPCYo4Di-nrHPvvv1lOqwTiFnlHX6KDV1HjwgVP-34EXpIqSISceA36AE9dnGOH6hG7lVCqY/s400/7ED46DE0-08D3-432D-B817-15C3F129F3DE.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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All buttoned ready for testing and tuning.</div>
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<b><i>Please check out the update to this build after some proper field testing, A few things were changed.</i></b></div>
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<a href="http://www.bluefish.net.nz/2016/01/armattan-f1-4b-update.html">http://www.bluefish.net.nz/2016/01/armattan-f1-4b-update.html</a>Petehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04947502453740564980noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8839354715017575057.post-83468746411127864012015-11-10T14:03:00.000-08:002015-11-10T14:03:01.696-08:00Quad weights So here are some of the full loaded weights to the quads I have.<br />
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<b><i>Armattan F1-5 - 407grams</i></b><br />
RCX2205s 2350kv<br />
LittleBees 20amps<br />
Naze Rev6 (betaflight)<br />
D4RII Transmitter<br />
ET200 VTX<br />
H1177S Camera<br />
3D Printed parts<br />
PVC tube arm protectors<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjU1YrXjz6Y_BS46_Di5WgZiG8EjymgOccdoFqGjHV9qbgoiPFjW2ier5EznjDBr05hpenGpz8u1vmRKntl_XyS3UZzRbDX6B2_3AsV3IYWkQGBkBXF1r3HXWZzzJ4biZEsGRK9I4LAFG8/s1600/IMG_0910.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjU1YrXjz6Y_BS46_Di5WgZiG8EjymgOccdoFqGjHV9qbgoiPFjW2ier5EznjDBr05hpenGpz8u1vmRKntl_XyS3UZzRbDX6B2_3AsV3IYWkQGBkBXF1r3HXWZzzJ4biZEsGRK9I4LAFG8/s400/IMG_0910.JPG" width="398" /></a></div>
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<b><i>Tweaker 180 - 327grams</i></b></div>
DYS1806 2400kv<br />
LittleBees 20amps<br />
Naze Rev5 (betaflight)<br />
D4RII Transmitter<br />
ET200 VTX<br />
ET200 600tvl 127 degree camera<br />
3D Printed parts<br />
PVC tube arm protectors<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUPFUcRsqy-2Ns06ZYnKgJWyiUYnQInzuRqDVoAaUWOnQdx_gRBaum22eTOL4stdf7QXOLQGFmy1WV7ruNtQ-YHzUhkV-1_LhJhKpS6CkNI3lQmYNRQW_5FTGSq3mN88AUFRyLTnRp-ak/s1600/IMG_0911.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUPFUcRsqy-2Ns06ZYnKgJWyiUYnQInzuRqDVoAaUWOnQdx_gRBaum22eTOL4stdf7QXOLQGFmy1WV7ruNtQ-YHzUhkV-1_LhJhKpS6CkNI3lQmYNRQW_5FTGSq3mN88AUFRyLTnRp-ak/s400/IMG_0911.JPG" width="398" /></a></div>
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<b><i>N-Trepid - 210grams</i></b></div>
DYS1306 3100kv<br />
4-1 ESC 12amp (blHeli)<br />
Naze Rev5 (betaflight)<br />
D4RII Transmitter<br />
3D Printed parts (skull with red led lights .... very cool )<br />
PVC tube arm protectors<br />
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<br />Petehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04947502453740564980noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8839354715017575057.post-46562059527958312752015-11-09T00:03:00.000-08:002015-12-11T14:13:40.362-08:00Armattan F1-5 Build<b><i>Side Note</i></b> : A huge thanks and shout out to the crew at Armattan (Chris & Natasha) I had a small issue with the frame that was sent, Not really Armattans fault and the customer service I got from the Armattan team was excellent, Fast response and fast resolution to the issue. I was so impressed by the service and the quality of the frame I went and ordered a F1-4.<br />
So a huge thanks to the Armattan team.<br />
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<b>Armattan F1-5 Frame build</b></h3>
After looking for my next build I wanted to get a X style frame, you know the next best thing since sliced bread, after doing my research it came down to an<a href="http://impulserc.com/" target="_blank"> ImPulseRC Alien</a> or the <a href="http://www.armattanquads.com/f1-5/" target="_blank">Armattan F1-5. </a><br />
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I decided on the F1-5, the drivers were unit cost, shipping cost and lifetime frame guarantee. I also really liked the arm design. After ordering and waiting for the package to arrive which was about 10 day international shipping if finally arrived.<br />
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Heres the completed build is its first shakedown flights<br />
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Parts I used in the build<br />
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<li>F1-5 Frame with PCB</li>
<li>Naze32 Rev6</li>
<li>LittleBee 20s</li>
<li>RCX 2205 / 2350s</li>
<li>ET200 VTX</li>
<li>Sony HS1177s camera</li>
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All part are individually plastic wrapped and come in a surprisingly small package.</div>
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The package contents. </div>
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The carbon is super high quality and the cuts the best I have seen. very impressed.</div>
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Interesting as its not clear in the online shots that the bottom plate uses press in nuts which makes for a super clean look and easy construction.</div>
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The green button head bolts that are supplied are a little long, probably due to the change in the bottom plate going from nylon nuts to the compression nuts.</div>
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Testing out the layout of the ESCs and the 2205s</div>
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The new PDB that was shipped as part of the current deal has polo integration build in for 5v supply, I used straight header pins and some 3M double sided tape to mount the polo in place. </div>
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After I had it all soldered in I realised I could have mounted internally for even clear look. </div>
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(I indeed did this as I had issues and this polo was swapped it out)</div>
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Pins soldered to the PDB, polo ready to be stuck in place and then soldered. </div>
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Checking to make sure that the 5v pads were getting 5v.</div>
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All done</div>
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Bolted down to the frame</div>
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FC nylon stands installed, 12mm supplied as pat of the kit.</div>
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Naze test fitted, the Rev6 Black looks good, black on black.</div>
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Time to prep the ESCs, I stripped back the heat shrink to allow the desoldering and resolder of the motor leads. I then used rubber bands to hold them in place while I cut and solder the power leads to the PDB. The only thing was that the LittleBees power leads were opposite to that of the PCB if I wanted the motor pads facing up. Not a biggy, but visually a little more untidy.</div>
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All ESCs power leads soldered.</div>
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Next it was time to strip off all the motor leads</div>
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The new RCX2205 / 2350s mounted ready to have the their leads cut to length and soldered to the ESCs</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjxR5pORH-XsxMTZW_Q-GRUeSZWFM8bqOKiBPTyxCPsRGJ3oiVvgyNlCL1rQD66oZUyjlHYT3dOsKme_1RG0yCm2ZI7JttpaEeOVTQgg6X1JfO2g1rUXeH8VbvQPCj472fmrKieQtvUEwY/s1600/IMG_0855.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjxR5pORH-XsxMTZW_Q-GRUeSZWFM8bqOKiBPTyxCPsRGJ3oiVvgyNlCL1rQD66oZUyjlHYT3dOsKme_1RG0yCm2ZI7JttpaEeOVTQgg6X1JfO2g1rUXeH8VbvQPCj472fmrKieQtvUEwY/s400/IMG_0855.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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Motors all done, I use the blheli motor reverse to get the motors turning in the right direction. that way I can make the motor leads nice and tidy.</div>
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The Naze32 rev 6 test fitted on to plan out the 5v power supply and where to put the motor pins. The motor pins were soldered on the bottom of the Naze facing inward, This hides the ESC plugs and makes for a cleaner build.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_f7U2koUeYYjbOz029MyzJDvDc0OGh88PklQFzL3ul5mIM4NBIDCaUs_oWKSAu__GPE_2B5WGNCRLWKR5yas1zr92D6u0Yj8cNRvssxQUly7RSDaT5OXKHJC9nejuzvvAJoXlvA5eVkw/s1600/IMG_0857.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_f7U2koUeYYjbOz029MyzJDvDc0OGh88PklQFzL3ul5mIM4NBIDCaUs_oWKSAu__GPE_2B5WGNCRLWKR5yas1zr92D6u0Yj8cNRvssxQUly7RSDaT5OXKHJC9nejuzvvAJoXlvA5eVkw/s400/IMG_0857.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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I soldered on a JST to the 5v pads to supply 5v to the motor 6 pins on the Naze.</div>
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Next I fitted one of my stripped down D4RIIs. Check out how I did this in my <a href="http://www.bluefish.net.nz/2015/09/hasterc-n-trepid-180-build.html" target="_blank">other builds here</a>. I mounted it on the rear lower plates of the f1. I hard soldered a servo lead to the Naze for PPM to plug into the D4RII, I also hard soldered the D4RII telemetry leads to the Naze. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3zs0LEHQM6QN2G2vTJH1zHVlZtbTM7aZsmhJ-eUcabSyksslH37U7mWZkuQmlaxYO2o80FXQ-dDC7gUajZOAiecz31j1uPBmS7I_LXRYWpoZedCAZcOP3Hlk2fEU_cZCVyN9hyphenhyphenJguW48/s1600/IMG_0860.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3zs0LEHQM6QN2G2vTJH1zHVlZtbTM7aZsmhJ-eUcabSyksslH37U7mWZkuQmlaxYO2o80FXQ-dDC7gUajZOAiecz31j1uPBmS7I_LXRYWpoZedCAZcOP3Hlk2fEU_cZCVyN9hyphenhyphenJguW48/s400/IMG_0860.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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I hard soldered a buzzer to the Naze, I just bent the pins so they fitted into the buzzer holes. I had to make sure this was done after I added the telemetry and vBat pins as the buzzer hides the holes. Once all wired up I used a dab of hot glue to give extra support. </div>
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I soldered a JST plug to the ESC tabs to provide batt voltage to the vBat pins on the Naze. I soldered vbat pins facing out for easy access.. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjBxb_8dK8quxqQsNPfU1W0paCJpHeFdEjKIJKlvBzr7CeEV4WbgHIqIPdKuAnbaNXAaBJ7WoDhs85lMNFeiDStWWGvqqfV7RAoPC6pw0ZyLoYA5qag82WeVP30mRBg5NagOzeFKJaqkVI/s1600/IMG_0861.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjBxb_8dK8quxqQsNPfU1W0paCJpHeFdEjKIJKlvBzr7CeEV4WbgHIqIPdKuAnbaNXAaBJ7WoDhs85lMNFeiDStWWGvqqfV7RAoPC6pw0ZyLoYA5qag82WeVP30mRBg5NagOzeFKJaqkVI/s400/IMG_0861.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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Next was the LED, the kit comes RGB 9 LED, that slots just behind the rear standoffs. it took me a while to find what voltage they run but its 5v. I used servo wire to run from the LED to the 5v pads on the PDB and the signal wire to pad 5 on the Naze32 rev 6 (is identified on the naze)</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQUueahJNaaApjzUeRpYOE0U2t69_driqe8mLS_3lNqigSnAo-MtxtF5Q_Mj06IMHVQRWbjaEpS0sjB2a7KO3vWB79LUH99sB6R6ofkhYn8K7FrGXo1qj_A7K3o0ryeTIaaDiYr_w01_E/s1600/IMG_0862.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQUueahJNaaApjzUeRpYOE0U2t69_driqe8mLS_3lNqigSnAo-MtxtF5Q_Mj06IMHVQRWbjaEpS0sjB2a7KO3vWB79LUH99sB6R6ofkhYn8K7FrGXo1qj_A7K3o0ryeTIaaDiYr_w01_E/s400/IMG_0862.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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LED cable routed under the transmitter.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjOq4d7nV_btXja7VI-rmA_atUajYEjkv9HfFZWsP4ef7FyuUVIVcRvEd3MLeM2Sh3Wvut1Dg-qx78RuhaezSUOn_sad4kv3QQ7tnJlS2MI4cd26rUm7bbGOaCXoTfZ4ttwXBMUa3V874o/s1600/IMG_0863.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjOq4d7nV_btXja7VI-rmA_atUajYEjkv9HfFZWsP4ef7FyuUVIVcRvEd3MLeM2Sh3Wvut1Dg-qx78RuhaezSUOn_sad4kv3QQ7tnJlS2MI4cd26rUm7bbGOaCXoTfZ4ttwXBMUa3V874o/s400/IMG_0863.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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LED RGB Signal wire hard soldered to the Naze, I later changed this to a single servo style pin to make it easier to do maintenance.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEib4GCZ9oJVpSDx4o7PXzan-QdDSKjDa-Tl2v6HurYkGEMzYg7GM72YX2Jbz-zimmEU3LcjFce7Pnaxn-jxCb9cSZgDvG10ex-ZW0XkG_BRFQK7nQnyGbYbSZ3F9fgone463dVYTDfhvBA/s1600/IMG_0864.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEib4GCZ9oJVpSDx4o7PXzan-QdDSKjDa-Tl2v6HurYkGEMzYg7GM72YX2Jbz-zimmEU3LcjFce7Pnaxn-jxCb9cSZgDvG10ex-ZW0XkG_BRFQK7nQnyGbYbSZ3F9fgone463dVYTDfhvBA/s400/IMG_0864.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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I designed some simple frame protectors, since I fly over tarmac 50% of the time I try and protect my frames as much as possible. I designed two, One for the center and one for the end. They both work as landing feet and raise the frame 8mm off the ground this also protects the through bolts and compression nuts on the bottom plate. </div>
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The front protector also acts as a bumper bar for frontal impacts. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgYdqctDZIp42XXCIkjcSULPZ07ojGFr27p7say8Aso2FL42vGPcSWpjgIOwgt6M9gTSlUmIm5uU4UDTiuj2dRsFfGY0JvLAwwyMoMlzDslP6KE73J0AbQ9FS1_jhjRzQrLOplxnlgQxOI/s1600/IMG_0865.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgYdqctDZIp42XXCIkjcSULPZ07ojGFr27p7say8Aso2FL42vGPcSWpjgIOwgt6M9gTSlUmIm5uU4UDTiuj2dRsFfGY0JvLAwwyMoMlzDslP6KE73J0AbQ9FS1_jhjRzQrLOplxnlgQxOI/s400/IMG_0865.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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That completed the main frame. All power tested and ready for firmware updates and configuration. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjOI76UtqacjVLAmqZQzcRlmuQ6ZgHKuxNG4IhRVB_etsLchshnn0fipf8cmGE6TR20lAunfA4eonX6UubXqytX43R1SfYkvnljCrBSoXTRLOh8LyIBwEQS4HqACxw2OXw2qTfO20zS_0k/s1600/IMG_0866.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjOI76UtqacjVLAmqZQzcRlmuQ6ZgHKuxNG4IhRVB_etsLchshnn0fipf8cmGE6TR20lAunfA4eonX6UubXqytX43R1SfYkvnljCrBSoXTRLOh8LyIBwEQS4HqACxw2OXw2qTfO20zS_0k/s400/IMG_0866.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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Next was to mount the ET200 VTX. I like to use pig tails as it provides extra mounting options and also saves the VTX in crashes. I like to have the video system on the top plate, it makes it easier to work on. I used a 5cm RP-SMA pigtail from the built in VTX mounting hole to the ET200 which was mounted just in front of the 2nd set of standoffs. This made the wiring from the ET200 to the camera shorter and simpler. </div>
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The frame is designed to work with the HS1177s camera and you can just use the provided mount screws that come with the camera. But I have had experience with those screw stripping the soft plastic or the camera becoming loose. So I designed a 20 degree ventilated "chair" for it to sit in to hold the angle and the side mount screws only had to hold the camera from horizontal movement. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJDCV-0JQQo4ZUCby_ke_j3CpjAh2WirmrkBngqBq3yZTaTtATjhniwfqOoXCBd3yPd26hJnVRKuFxlybSitA87zemKTvlV-SQwKahtbBEDNaEzcXceOQINGj7d2yRZLed-wc1S_ZnCEs/s1600/IMG_0871.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJDCV-0JQQo4ZUCby_ke_j3CpjAh2WirmrkBngqBq3yZTaTtATjhniwfqOoXCBd3yPd26hJnVRKuFxlybSitA87zemKTvlV-SQwKahtbBEDNaEzcXceOQINGj7d2yRZLed-wc1S_ZnCEs/s400/IMG_0871.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZrSy0uMToSPeKfoG_9LYl0F2zfTlFqosr2i3vQAG-nluLVs_ybafAWLowLnz7o74JDrSKChQfGelN2lcxUOUYGPNHZpqDFRA8YKZUU3iDVi7Sa7I-RynVXF5G5AyULqaFs-xebnNN5rY/s1600/IMG_0872.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZrSy0uMToSPeKfoG_9LYl0F2zfTlFqosr2i3vQAG-nluLVs_ybafAWLowLnz7o74JDrSKChQfGelN2lcxUOUYGPNHZpqDFRA8YKZUU3iDVi7Sa7I-RynVXF5G5AyULqaFs-xebnNN5rY/s400/IMG_0872.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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Camera sitting in its chair in its new home.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiPL2EuC7B3MP2pLWvIW1wYEQ2f9Qiog5gcm5ucEr6xZjV2mkjia3feuLcpEEqRsAm89QWroUSZiicerJH9cG54keLTYoaeCiRMbDpQvo8R0cJ_lMXAiePHcwNpzYWgmgKeasroEa_mbW8/s1600/IMG_0873.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiPL2EuC7B3MP2pLWvIW1wYEQ2f9Qiog5gcm5ucEr6xZjV2mkjia3feuLcpEEqRsAm89QWroUSZiicerJH9cG54keLTYoaeCiRMbDpQvo8R0cJ_lMXAiePHcwNpzYWgmgKeasroEa_mbW8/s400/IMG_0873.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgoSarTGVBi6YBREVEJiXbnHAtWUDddp8arQsfag8TMa_6ZWQMLgqDH0is7OtK9Qj02v6ZJX69b__P3KkHKLKQDvZw8D2EEW6PcucGQuGzisiGsZ9G2TxVqoe6DzX70_9ToOKzBytepy4M/s1600/IMG_0874.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgoSarTGVBi6YBREVEJiXbnHAtWUDddp8arQsfag8TMa_6ZWQMLgqDH0is7OtK9Qj02v6ZJX69b__P3KkHKLKQDvZw8D2EEW6PcucGQuGzisiGsZ9G2TxVqoe6DzX70_9ToOKzBytepy4M/s400/IMG_0874.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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Next I made the wire harness for the ET200 to the HS1177s and power. I like to have the ability to unplug the complete VTX system if required, or more to the point have it unplugged until I am actually doing some FPV.</div>
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The camera plug with my <a href="http://www.rctimer.com/product-1275.html" target="_blank">RCTime ET200 kit</a> fitted the HS1177s so that made it very easy to make the harness. I just shortened the leads and removed the audio wires. On the plug that goes into the VTX I hot glued and heat shrink wrapped it with a right angle bend to reduce the stress on that plug. The great thing about the ET200 is that you can power either a 5v or 12v camera which makes for easy wiring.</div>
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I got 12v for the VTX system off one of the front 12v pads I soldered on a JST plug to make it easy to plug / unplug the VTX system.</div>
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I used the same trick on my other builds using 4mm OD PVC tubing with one side cut to wrap around the arms. this gives the arms great protection from impacts and its an easy, cheap and light way to protect the carbon fiber. I also wick the ends of the arms in CA glue.</div>
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You can see in this view the 3d printed feet and front and rear bumpers for additional frame protection.</div>
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Once the ESCs were all wired up the rubber bands were removed and the ESCs were 3M double sided to the frame and then wrapped in good quality electrical insulation tape. I also found cool superman and bright orange duck tape that I used to add some colour and humour to the build. </div>
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Overall very impressed with the frame and the quality of the kit provided from Armattan. I would not hesitate in recommending this frame just based on that alone. Yet alone on how it flies..... </div>
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<b>Software </b></h3>
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With the Naze32 Rev6 I<a href="https://github.com/borisbstyle/betaflight/releases/" target="_blank"> used BetaFligth (latest release)</a>, which is just awesome. I loaded the firmware and configured up the Naze, PPM, Failsafe, flight modes, endpoints, deadband, telemetry, </div>
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I use PID controller LuxFloat and pretty my used the defaults, I increased the P a couple of points, that was it.</div>
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The LittleBees were updated to blheli 14.201 with damped light. </div>
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Test flights</h3>
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Wowsers .... Ok so after I tested the PIDs with no RC rates added, the defaults were rock solid, but I tweaked alittle on the Ps. Once I was happy, I added in my desired RC Rates, with my skill level that is in the 40-50 range. </div>
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I am in love .... this is hands down the best flying quad I have, Now I'm sure thats the complete combo, but the X frame is super strong and with the 2205s / littlebees / betafligh its my fastest with the most punch quad, I am still only a 3s kid, goodness only knows what it would be like on 4s.</div>
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So far all flights have been LOS acro, can't wait to get some time to take it FPVing. </div>
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Like I mentioned I loved this frame so much I ordered a F1-4, which I think is the best endorsement of a frame / frame maker. </div>
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Petehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04947502453740564980noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8839354715017575057.post-50351450875508352752015-09-30T02:18:00.002-07:002015-10-05T23:42:01.881-07:00HasteRC N-Trepid 180 BuildSo after the Tweaker build I've got the 180 bug... they are awesome.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZYcXmTKIgaLqxBHzk4x-f4Cov6YF9JVoAxcAigdI57ZPmQNIi0D2DqjTjKT4HN1MHjqTpKjTVGJ6bf-d398YSKTTpoQWQCy1efyVv9aNIS6qDbGdKPw356iWTuGNQTmaBvx81A0l9DIU/s1600/IMG_0699.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="362" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZYcXmTKIgaLqxBHzk4x-f4Cov6YF9JVoAxcAigdI57ZPmQNIi0D2DqjTjKT4HN1MHjqTpKjTVGJ6bf-d398YSKTTpoQWQCy1efyVv9aNIS6qDbGdKPw356iWTuGNQTmaBvx81A0l9DIU/s400/IMG_0699.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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I have always admired N-Armed frames from <a href="http://www.hasterc.com/" target="_blank">HasteRC</a> and New Zealand made so double win, but I had too many 250mm sized quads. But then I heard through the grapevine ... and Facebook teases that HasteRC were also going to be doing a 180. I bugged Ryan and Gareth and managed to get one of the first production frames.<br />
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<b><i>UPDATE :</i></b><br />
Video of the first shakedown LOS flights<br />
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And here it is. The quality is first class, excellent cuts, 4mm bottom plate, super strong and rigid as you would expect with 4mm CF in a 180mm size beasty. Add to that a 2mm top plate and you have a super strong frame.<br />
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It came with blue anodised bolts and 18mm nylon standoffs. I swapped the stand offs to 25mm for this build to fit everything in, due to using the 4-1 ESC.<br />
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The ESC I have had for awhile, Its was from http://www.readytoflyquads.com. It was supposed to come with blHeli and damped light set, But it did not. It also came with no documentation and it took me a long while to get all the right stuff to flash them myself. But I finally was able to flash it using a afroUSB tool. It now has blheli 14.102, Damped light, medium timing.<br />
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Motors are Dragonfly 1306 / 3100kv. After the DYS 1306 I wanted to try a different brand and see if they held up longer, Since I bent 2 shafts on the DYSs in three flights with mild crashes.<br />
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First job was to wire up the motors to the esc, luckily the Dragonfly motor came with long leads that enabled me to braid and connect directly without any patch leads. Below is the test fit up. The esc is held on a self designed 3D printed holder as there are components close to the mount holes that stops you using stand nylon stand offs. Its a real pain but I got it sorted. </div>
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Now with any 180 build space is super tight. So to reduce space I moved the motor pins to underneath the Naze32 and separate power (pin5) ground (pin6) so it was all only a servo lead high. </div>
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All soldered up, yes a little messy from removing the old pins... but working ;)<br />
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Next I need to make a patch lead from the esc to the Naze. The ESC has a stupid 6pin plug and only comes with one lead. The last build I used the 4-2 I soldered directly to the Naze, but the ground fatigued and broke and I wasn't able to update the firmware. So in this build I took the time to make a strong patch lead, and the use of servo plugs so I could update blheli as required (Now I finally figured out how to on this ESC)</div>
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Patch lead mid construction.</div>
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Nearly all done. I used heat shrink on the 6pin plug to help strength it.<br />
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I also used heat shrink and while it was still hot bent the cable to the right angle to help reduce the strain.<br />
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Test fitted up looking nice and tidy so far ....<br />
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Next was to re-route the power leads. They were out the side but that was just untidy, So I rerouted them out the back. I had to trim my 3d printed holder with a box cutter but that was the only mod.</div>
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Much better.</div>
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Of course I also needed power for vBat reads off the Naze and 12v for the Video transmitter. I spliced them into the power leads. Over all the power system came out really tidy.</div>
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The xt60 was ziptied to using the holes in the rear of the bottom plate.</div>
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Naze, ESC, Leads all complete.<br />
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Next up was to reduce the size of the DR4-II, I removed all the pins, and the soldered on 3 pins in the reverse direction, this reduced the length without any extra height. I used a normal servo plug. I did this to make it easy for maintenance. </div>
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Then I used heat shrink to cover it all. Makes for a nice compact receiver.<br />
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Now with a 180 build space is a premium, So I mounted the D4R to the top plate. This also makes it easy for maintenance for when stuff breaks. </div>
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To give myself a little more room I swapped to 22mm standoffs from the 18mm supplied ones .... then after some more test fits I opted for 25mm stand offs. Thats still a slim frame, the tweaker is using the normal 35mm ones.</div>
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Now its was time for the FPV gear ... so I had to steal that from another quad. Here is the donor and the 180, its sooo little compared to the 250.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9q1hwus-zUBrmYV2bsvzO5_xws1TU0rgyBVCOr-zDRLgSKf9sP3ixAHsokjAyv25lfYQSMqfJkeglYJJHtHXzTQF-KJ9TCPp1d0JaHHkxIqKYGH1ru0ixt4khfrpYGXksZtVvUpa86k0/s1600/IMG_0677.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9q1hwus-zUBrmYV2bsvzO5_xws1TU0rgyBVCOr-zDRLgSKf9sP3ixAHsokjAyv25lfYQSMqfJkeglYJJHtHXzTQF-KJ9TCPp1d0JaHHkxIqKYGH1ru0ixt4khfrpYGXksZtVvUpa86k0/s400/IMG_0677.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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First up was the VTX a 32 channel Et200. I like these as its very easy to swap channels as it has the LED indicators and its just a push button to swap. They also have 12v and 5v out to power cameras so not need for separate camera becs.<br />
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Taken out of its 3d printed case and heat shrinked to reduce the size.</div>
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This was mounted to the top plate with a right angle clover leaf. Its on an angle so that the wire harness will be nicely hidden. </div>
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Now since I had mounted the receiver and the vtx to the top plate that did not allow the battery strap any room to run under the top plate. So I had to find a solution. So this is what I came up with. I used thicker zipties through the 35mm space holes on the top plate and ran the battery strap through those. So far it has worked really well. A big crash will be the true test. But its just zipties and easy to replace.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjoovuxELQ4mUQtOh7Oun7J0H7e2JiJm_vN722tuSeNp5Ub5G-HcnHQypI-LpUG5ZcLLkJupAq9a9kah0E_YKHc4IIZb9Cw8sSGc-l1VJr7ovbw_z6FnKZLZgRCraejUPyjB6h_wcXKCkk/s1600/IMG_0683.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjoovuxELQ4mUQtOh7Oun7J0H7e2JiJm_vN722tuSeNp5Ub5G-HcnHQypI-LpUG5ZcLLkJupAq9a9kah0E_YKHc4IIZb9Cw8sSGc-l1VJr7ovbw_z6FnKZLZgRCraejUPyjB6h_wcXKCkk/s400/IMG_0683.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQeQZFp13Qv63eS6D7KOnrJIrd-H_GGRUUg0Z42b2un45ouP2q83-QVEv_hIxVb5eNgv0kGe_drf5z9lK0dZ9xqCP79b7xavqLRjrzU0DSoXc1eL61owQq2uVTlSd6GKDhLxGiCMsyDfo/s1600/IMG_0684.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQeQZFp13Qv63eS6D7KOnrJIrd-H_GGRUUg0Z42b2un45ouP2q83-QVEv_hIxVb5eNgv0kGe_drf5z9lK0dZ9xqCP79b7xavqLRjrzU0DSoXc1eL61owQq2uVTlSd6GKDhLxGiCMsyDfo/s400/IMG_0684.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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Next up was the camera, this is a <a href="http://www.banggood.com/FPV-14-CMOS-HD-Color-Camera-Module-600TVL-120-Degree-Wide-Angle-p-944546.html" target="_blank">cheap bangood special,</a> but plan on getting either a sony or runcam camera next purchase cycle. But this will do for now.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4xFGwQokREhSmV3vkgAtf4kqjbqK0yLj7JLA8GsDHnLvBaQkOETPbxWKi6hcLmFug5nt7Jy6p0HNmfSUCD9CPd3risBeje-ydO9MHnAiAdZQcVecLX-8H_3HSA6hvruDD81J3pSWMaas/s1600/IMG_0688.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4xFGwQokREhSmV3vkgAtf4kqjbqK0yLj7JLA8GsDHnLvBaQkOETPbxWKi6hcLmFug5nt7Jy6p0HNmfSUCD9CPd3risBeje-ydO9MHnAiAdZQcVecLX-8H_3HSA6hvruDD81J3pSWMaas/s400/IMG_0688.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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The mount is a 25degree 3D printed mount from HasteRC that is designed for the Sony HS1177, but this camera fitted in it as well, I just used some 3m double sided tape and a zip tie. I just drilled a hole where it matched the hole on the frame.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiSQ61psdbPUDMUp2dph2uj7dPfuDwn2zLyCwhkcLPufSkh-1d3M4e3tXhX07FZoxf67ZsC0H8Xs1x5lf1MNt-6ohEU67ZeO9qMSoN-8lLZgKmVKywcopS5yvMVXDXCCBFmxJIjg5j-D54/s1600/IMG_0689.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiSQ61psdbPUDMUp2dph2uj7dPfuDwn2zLyCwhkcLPufSkh-1d3M4e3tXhX07FZoxf67ZsC0H8Xs1x5lf1MNt-6ohEU67ZeO9qMSoN-8lLZgKmVKywcopS5yvMVXDXCCBFmxJIjg5j-D54/s400/IMG_0689.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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All fitted.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6Xpgn3Fo70EpU_bpqw3JDA9fNu4ESjO5SaKFXoRbcsbHFVRzYrh042T0-jjtOwIrPzxF7PdYCxyTrYahz8aH6uCQzcA3dRLcQ5oALPgU3qjkCwsn6QwA20mCq1D8jh4XLoLcTHNNYjR8/s1600/IMG_0690.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6Xpgn3Fo70EpU_bpqw3JDA9fNu4ESjO5SaKFXoRbcsbHFVRzYrh042T0-jjtOwIrPzxF7PdYCxyTrYahz8aH6uCQzcA3dRLcQ5oALPgU3qjkCwsn6QwA20mCq1D8jh4XLoLcTHNNYjR8/s400/IMG_0690.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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Now one of those "SH$T" moments, I was trying to fix a zip tie slipped and busted the bind switch on my new D4R..... panic and swear words. But I was able to completely remove the damaged switch, and add some solder to the points. then I just used my box cutter blade to close the circuit to bind and set fail safe ..... pheeww !!!</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNcroVuYyRJPrKhATzS7PLyHwRYvkDUY2zjPYLv81yYR36bj8qeb06nywAopmN0Sb40aqOZp8Cpz3BhtD17ddHVtvKvv6jAOUOViyVfke-z4qS_4Sd_SCT1XPt_MZbj_jGLSQCf7PuvF4/s1600/IMG_0691.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNcroVuYyRJPrKhATzS7PLyHwRYvkDUY2zjPYLv81yYR36bj8qeb06nywAopmN0Sb40aqOZp8Cpz3BhtD17ddHVtvKvv6jAOUOViyVfke-z4qS_4Sd_SCT1XPt_MZbj_jGLSQCf7PuvF4/s400/IMG_0691.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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The top plate is very busy on a 180, starting from the top, ET200 VTX, with a JST plug for power if I want to fly with out the VTX on, Wire harness from the VTX that provides 12v to the camera, a servo male/female plug to make it easy to swap cameras. The the D4R, thats it and they "just" fit on the top plate.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjvIqJvH8eHb6jmH6V8WpQjpsXekBdPQ_0UXGq8kVBOgA2yUSfnpgY-5wn7cvRUPHL-lAYboAxcm3Q1yahhUIPslvKo_I7bD8ZnTCvKERoDdM6Ki0DvsEQKKFRtbkNs2O3EGxbz5w7REmM/s1600/IMG_0693.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjvIqJvH8eHb6jmH6V8WpQjpsXekBdPQ_0UXGq8kVBOgA2yUSfnpgY-5wn7cvRUPHL-lAYboAxcm3Q1yahhUIPslvKo_I7bD8ZnTCvKERoDdM6Ki0DvsEQKKFRtbkNs2O3EGxbz5w7REmM/s400/IMG_0693.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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How it looks just before closing up, Makes it easy to get into everything.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEij0qAj6YIomhnn7Pu1BVlyzHJcbCYbW171PsysF5diLdqe-52xkHhUO0_csrbdyHmiHeky3xYr-UosZgrlmtsvstwW0TXUD1eHmIjdDOsHvnkclXktQZ4bMVAFe4NlRKjxVFODKKYqfks/s1600/IMG_0692.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEij0qAj6YIomhnn7Pu1BVlyzHJcbCYbW171PsysF5diLdqe-52xkHhUO0_csrbdyHmiHeky3xYr-UosZgrlmtsvstwW0TXUD1eHmIjdDOsHvnkclXktQZ4bMVAFe4NlRKjxVFODKKYqfks/s400/IMG_0692.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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Top plate completely removed.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEisr0XB2KM1TD_n0zzrvoJl2G_hj-x7H9qu7W5kXRauAQBePm0yDtvzk_M7UhinoBchJNfFKyNzb-AhNeWjdGrBwoi1DaeP0JkmSdF7nM2D9T8SSTK9pqEX8jUvVE6G243VXX326DI_ru4/s1600/IMG_0695.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEisr0XB2KM1TD_n0zzrvoJl2G_hj-x7H9qu7W5kXRauAQBePm0yDtvzk_M7UhinoBchJNfFKyNzb-AhNeWjdGrBwoi1DaeP0JkmSdF7nM2D9T8SSTK9pqEX8jUvVE6G243VXX326DI_ru4/s400/IMG_0695.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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Ok so here is the completed weight minus props, So if you soldered everything instead of using plugs like I have and reduced some wire usage you could easily get a sub 200gram using 1306s.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZ8uunFmGQOXrEenSXldt-cSGuOSVuGeZIw_5JTN7Us6NJ5d388VOhoYPsBZrDLY1nTSlf34OEjgugmU6QRWXBx21qSCCg2XbXFpzOx6NVQsvOEbVSQRagqNhRQND_HRflkc-_uHi1DwM/s1600/IMG_0696.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZ8uunFmGQOXrEenSXldt-cSGuOSVuGeZIw_5JTN7Us6NJ5d388VOhoYPsBZrDLY1nTSlf34OEjgugmU6QRWXBx21qSCCg2XbXFpzOx6NVQsvOEbVSQRagqNhRQND_HRflkc-_uHi1DwM/s400/IMG_0696.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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Now once I put on the props, My fav mod of using 4mm PVC tube as a bumper to protect the frame (I fly over tarmac alot) and the battery strap ... I come in at 228grams. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGdz-T9hgQOH9WQKdv0c3loAfYEIoEakn6YgR8CdU_aJfQMPqHBQlTqHcUnJrrBVNn3XZzqpDV5nyrFaqFiWhhsAmnGi8FbEHTcpy5QZMtapvqjDPbmbeUhyphenhyphenX_n9fdnFqeyBd5dgfXUEY/s1600/IMG_0697.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGdz-T9hgQOH9WQKdv0c3loAfYEIoEakn6YgR8CdU_aJfQMPqHBQlTqHcUnJrrBVNn3XZzqpDV5nyrFaqFiWhhsAmnGi8FbEHTcpy5QZMtapvqjDPbmbeUhyphenhyphenX_n9fdnFqeyBd5dgfXUEY/s320/IMG_0697.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<b><i>Conclusions</i></b> </div>
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Like any 180 build you do not have a lot of space, so you have to plan carefully. But the N-trepid has more room than the Tweaker which allowed for a slimmer build. Overall this frame is awesome, I cant wait to get some decent flight time on it. </div>
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I will post video and PIDs after some flying. </div>
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<br />Petehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04947502453740564980noreply@blogger.com